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Author Topic: Trouble Shooting  (Read 11364 times)
geekskunk
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« on: July 10, 2009, 11:18:47 PM »

I was wondering if you have any suggestions for troubleshooting aside from what is mentioned in the instruction sheet?

My voltage adjustment and test went well, no problem uploading the code.  I'm using a single National 8037 Nixie but doesn't seem to want to light.  I've tried setting the delay as low as 40, and high as 400 with out any change.   

Currently I only have Anode 1 and a single Cathode connected  (thought I would test in this mode before getting it all together.  Any reason this setup shouldn't work?

I noticed on my Nixie pinout it lists pin 1 & 8 as "Internal Conn,"  I just have these open at the moment as I'm not sure what they are for. 

Thanks for any help.
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nonentity
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« Reply #1 on: July 11, 2009, 08:02:59 AM »

Hi Geekskunk!

Thanks for posting, here's my first try suggestions for you...

Make sure you have a 10K resistor between your anode output on the ArduiNIX and the anode pin of your Nixie Tube.  This evens out the load on the tube, especially when you have multiple tubes.

Take your voltmeter and test the outputs you're getting at the anode output (Pos) on the ArduiNIX (not the test point)  and the cathode (neg) you want to use to test your tube.  Depening on the code, you should have a flickering output corresponding to the amount of voltage you have your ArduiNIX set to.

Test all the cathodes this way. Depending on the code you have installed, it could be multiplexing both sets of cathode terminals or just one, therefore if you have the tube hooked to the one not opening a channel back to ground, it would not light your tube.

If all else fails, test your tube by hooking the anode of your tube up to test point one, (Remember the resistor on the anode), and grounding one of the cathodes to the board itself.  If it doesn't light, you have a bad tube.

If you somehow switched the MPSA94 and MPSA92, that could cause some troubles, as these control how the driver chips function, and if you have an overheated driver chip due to that, well, that could also cause that.

If we can't get you going, we can work something out via photos of the unit for troubleshooting, or if you want to send it to us to check against the functioning units we can go that route.

Good luck, we're here to answer any more of your questions to get you up and running.

Thanks~!



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nonentity
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geekskunk
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« Reply #2 on: July 11, 2009, 11:02:32 AM »

Thanks for the quick reply. All working now!

It ended up that only my A4 seemed to be active and the resistor was needed as you suggested.  I'll post my finished product when I clean things up.  Very fun kit!
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mloebl
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« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2009, 01:34:57 PM »

I think I just saw the same thing, glad I read this post Smiley  So in the sample source code for 1 tube, you have it listed at Anode 0 if I am reading it right.  In the example schematic you show it as Anode 1 (ie 0.)  However just like the previous poster, I needed to connect to Anode 4 for it to work.  Is this correct?

Thanks!

-Mike
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nonentity
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« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2009, 05:29:48 PM »

I think I just saw the same thing, glad I read this post Smiley  So in the sample source code for 1 tube, you have it listed at Anode 0 if I am reading it right.  In the example schematic you show it as Anode 1 (ie 0.)  However just like the previous poster, I needed to connect to Anode 4 for it to work.  Is this correct?

Thanks!

-Mike

It most likely is correct, as we created the code quit a bit earlier than when I did the sample diagram.  The best way to check is to step through the code and see which anode pin is active, but a simple voltmeter test should let you know that as well.

Hope this helps!  We probably should edit the code or the sample diagram.  Thanks for bringing this to my attention, folks!

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nonentity
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mloebl
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« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2009, 06:19:41 PM »

Not a big deal, figured it may be something like that Smiley

Any idea when the schematics for wiring a 6 tube set up may be coming out? 

Thanks!

-Mike
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nonentity
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« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2009, 07:58:51 AM »

Yeah, I need to post that up.  I will probably draw one out tomorrow and toss it up here.
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nonentity
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Myrddinthegeek
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« Reply #7 on: August 03, 2009, 11:36:59 AM »

I built my Arduinix this weekend and I am only seeing about 130v with the trim pot turned all the way up.  I am using the 22pF cap that was included.  Should I try removing it and putting in another cap say 10pF or something?  Is there another reason I would be seeing this problem?
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Emblazed
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« Reply #8 on: August 03, 2009, 12:31:08 PM »

Send me some pics of your project and we will help trouble shoot the voltage problem.

.. Emblazed
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Myrddinthegeek
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« Reply #9 on: August 03, 2009, 01:53:39 PM »

I will take photos tonight and send them in.
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nonentity
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« Reply #10 on: August 04, 2009, 10:45:19 AM »

If you have photos, send them to bradley@robotpirate.com and jeremy@robotpirate.com so we can have a look at what's up.

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