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 on: August 26, 2012, 05:33:29 AM 
Started by dreiduke - Last post by dreiduke
I have the 6 Digit  Code adapted to make it working with 4 digits, Fading, Dots, RTC and Pushbuttons.
And i have take alot of comments in the code

[code]// 4 Digits + 2 Dots + Fading + Button Time Set + RTC  (default connections).
// based on 6-tube sketch by "Emblazed"
// 4-tube-itized by "Dave Blevins" 16 June 2011
// this shows minutes and seconds only
// COLON-alized by "Carnifex Maximus"
// Combined and Modified by "Dreiduke" (Falko P

 on: August 26, 2012, 04:03:28 AM 
Started by Marsupial - Last post by dreiduke
i have tested the Tubes, with such a thing


 on: July 11, 2012, 03:53:31 PM 
Started by Zipripper - Last post by Zipripper
Problem solved!!! stupid problem I must say, but solved Embarrassed. Because I made my own power supply from the Arduinix schematics I used a 5volt supply as input voltage. That was the reason the output voltage reached only 140Volts, after correcting this problem en raised the input voltage I got the correct output voltage Cheesy.
For the problems that occurred on the breadboard, well the problem was the breadboard Huh.

 on: July 09, 2012, 05:19:26 PM 
Started by Zipripper - Last post by Zipripper
I used the Arduinix schematics to create a power-supply for my project, but there seems to be a problem with my design.
At the start of the 1k trimmer at 0% (0 Ohm) I have a voltage of 95Volts, when I start to increase the trimmer the voltage reaches about 140Volts after that the Voltage collapses to 95V again.
I watched the out signal of the NE555 and after the 140V the signal gets very unstable.

The next step i did was building the power supply on a breadboard because the most of the components on the PCB are SMD, but it got worse. The voltage does not get higher then 70-80Volts. All the components are connected as in the schematics and there are no faulty connections. I measured the signal on pin3 of the NE555 it stays between the 180 and 210Khz, and sometimes the coil L1 gets quite hot is this normal?

What goes wrong? I'am not an expert on electronics so is there someone that can help me or at least put me in the right direction?

Thanks in advanced,

 on: July 08, 2012, 01:29:03 PM 
Started by Chad - Last post by picard782000
Yes,I have a rtc module working in my nixie clock.

 Time setting is done with the computer, because I did not want to add any buttons on my pcb

 on: July 08, 2012, 01:25:13 PM 
Started by picard782000 - Last post by picard782000

Has anybody implemented the cathode poisoning prevention in the code?

I have built a Nixie clock with an Arduino Nano based on the code from Arduinix.
I have implemented a rtc modul and now I am thinking about the cathode poisoning prevention.

 But I have no idea how to do that.

 on: June 24, 2012, 10:17:35 AM 
Started by Chad - Last post by Chad
Has anyone integrated a RTC with the arduino and the arduinix  to keep better time

 on: June 22, 2012, 09:20:54 PM 
Started by catdotgif - Last post by Chad
Did anyone find a good setting? Mine is fast at 1000 and to slow at 1001

 on: April 09, 2012, 10:11:20 AM 
Started by Risen - Last post by Risen
I'm fairly experienced with code, but I'm pretty new to the electronics part. When I get my project built I'll contribute some code back here; I'm doing a 6-bulb w/ separators that integrates with an RTC. I've seen this question posted a few times but without a direct answer, so I'm going to try to sum up a few things and see if I can't get this straight.

I'm trying to use some IN-3 bulbs as separators. I believe it's similar to the INS-1; asking for 65-90V, 55V maintaining. Also, I think I'm reading a maintaining amps of 0.8mA?
Datasheet is here, but my Russian isn't very good:

When I pull from the 'test' voltage point, I can get the bulb to light pretty well by putting a resistor in series. I've tried a number of resistor values, in each case the voltage across the bulb was always near 40V. Do these have a variable resistance depending on what voltage you supply? I can calculate the resistor to put the amps across it that I'm looking for. (Landed on 200K to give me about 0.6mA. It glows nicely.) Is that the right way to find the resistor value?

I wired it up to the ArduiNix anodes/cathodes, across a pin I had switching on/off each second. When 'on' the bulb didn't light nearly as fully. When 'off' the bulb still had a small glow. The ArduiNix was multiplexing all four anodes as that's how I intend to run it. I tried changing the multiplex delay but it didn't seem to have much effect on the problem above. It seems it's not getting enough while "on" and yet getting too much when it's supposed to be "off". I'm not sure what to do here.

The ArduiNix seems to be built properly; I have some IN-14 tubes, which light just fine. I've tested all the anode/cathode pairs and they turn on/off as expected. I don't have an expensive enough volt meter to tell you what's happening across them during multiplexing. It reads between 15V and 40V but, again, multiplexing is surely making that inaccurate.

So, basically, the question boils down to this: what's the proper way to drive an IN-3 bulb with the ArduiNix?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 on: April 09, 2012, 08:24:51 AM 
Started by catdotgif - Last post by nonentity
Hi All,
     Has anyone written some code to correct for a fast/slow clock?  In the IN-17 code, nonentity has:
// Get time in seconds.
  long time = (runTime) / 1000; //////////change this value to speed up or slow down the clock

So I guess I get that, if for example my clock was 7 minutes fast per six month period, and there are 259200 minutes in a six month period, then I should...?

I can work out a time correction code, but before I do, has anyone already done this?  Just hate to duplicate labor.


As far as I know, no one has made any corrected code like you describe...

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